Visiting Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks in the Winter
Having been to 58 National Parks on our quest to visit all 63, we wanted to visit Yellowstone National Park again during the quiet calm and beauty of the winter season! So, we opt for a road trip adventure to Yellowstone in route from Seattle to Jackson Hole, instead of a quick plane ride.
Winter Transportation into and around Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone has five entrances, three of which are open in the winter. If flying, versus driving like us to the park, Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport is the closest and it’s open in the winter. It takes just under two hours to get to the West Entrance via a shuttle or rental car from the airport.
West Yellowstone, a small town of 1,200, is the major winter gateway to Yellowstone National Park. We arrive on a cold snowy February evening having driven 14 hours. The Kelly Inn is comfortable and conveniently located across the street from the Visitor Center where we will meet our “snow coach” at 9 am tomorrow.
We are happy to board the 12-person Yellowstone Expeditions snow coach with our super nice and knowledgeable guide, Chris. During our short wait at the park entrance, we learn that winter access (December-March) is only via these fun snow coaches with huge fat tires as well as small, guided groups of snow mobiles. Groups (snowmobile or snow coach) are limited, all must have a guide and decibels on motorized vehicles have strict limits – fine with us.
“Over snow vehicles” are the only vehicles allowed in the park except on the road between the north and northeast entrances where private vehicles are allowed. There are a variety of trips offered, photography, wildlife and scenic. All the guides seem to know each other, have fun and share information!
The ride into the popular Old Faithful area, although only 30 miles, takes us three hours with endless beauty and fun facts along the way. Because of all the thermal features in the huge caldera known at Yellowstone the gorgeous snow surrounded rivers along our route don’t freeze – they just get warmer and warmer as we get closer to the geysers and hot springs.
Trumpeter Swan, Yellowstone National Park, WY
Bison abound. Waterfowl does too thanks to the non-frozen rivers. My favorites are the gorgeous white Trumpeter Swans who pass through in the winter.
We follow the majestic Madison River into the park for 14 miles. Then we turn south where the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers meet to form the Madison River and follow the Firehole River upstream for another 16 miles before arriving at the classic Old Faithful area.
Winter Food and Lodging in Yellowstone National Park
The beautiful historic snow covered Old Faithful Lodge is closed for the winter, so we are dropped off at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, which is much bigger, nicer, and newer than we had imagined! It was originally built in 1958 as a dorm, opened to visitors in 1971, and then totally renovated in 1999.
While not as frequented this time of year, the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is also open in the winter just inside the North Entrance.
Luckily our comfy Snow Lodge room is ready, so we have time to settle in before Old Faithful “goes off” at 1ish. The fantastic Old Faithful Visitor and Education Center with a huge window view of Old Faithful Geyser is open in the winter but we can’t resist going outside and getting up close to the big action.
Lunch in the quick-service Geyser Grill follows. And later, we enjoy a pleasant and reasonably priced dinner in the comfortable Obsidian Dining Room. The lobby has wonderful views and plenty of places to hang out and enjoy. There is a ski shop that rents skis and snowshoes as well as helping with routes.
One night and two days in the park seems to work well but a longer visit might be fun for other visitors depending on snow conditions. This is a particularly light snow year!
Biscuit Basin, Yellowstone National Park, MT
Skiing, Snowshoeing and Walking in Yellowstone National Park – Upper Geyser Basin, 6 miles.
After lunch we bundle up for a walk around the Upper Geyser Basin to experience all the thermal (geysers and hot springs) features. The snow is packed or melted from the thermals so hiking boots and poles seem to work best on the trails and board walks.
The first thing we notice is the peace and quiet – we see very few people, albeit it’s a cold cloudy day. Our snow coach guide, Chris, told us that the number of visitors in the entire winter season is equivalent to three days of visitors in the summer!
On our way out into the Upper Geyser Basin we come upon our first geyser, Castle Geyser. Geysers are unique hot springs that build up pressure and then erupt shooting water and steam into the air. Some erupt at predictable times, like Old Faithful, and others don’t.
As we continue, we see Grand Geyser in the distance and then come upon Grotto Geyser up close. All miraculous, especially in the snow.
Finally, we make it out to the famous Morning Glory Pool which is a hot spring. Water is heated deep underground and then seeps to the surface. It’s not constricted like a geyser. Vibrant colors are formed by different minerals and algae making for a beautiful contrast to the white snow!
The end of the day is approaching so we turn back, retracing our steps.
Mystic Falls, Yellowstone National Park, MT
Skiing, Snowshoeing and Walking in Yellowstone National Park – Mystic Falls, 6 miles.
We chose Mystic Falls as the ideal snowshoe for our second day in the park. We are up and out by 9 am to get a shuttle ride from the lodge to the Mystic Falls trailhead at Biscuit Basin. This saves us time – our snow coach departs for West Yellowstone at 2pm.
Stepping off the shuttle into Biscuit Basin is “other worldly”. Steam rises from the entire snowy and thermal laden landscape while small geysers and brightly colored pools get our attention. Bison dot the landscape.
The two other people on the shuttle just happen to also be from Seattle – they go first and help break the trail. Just past Biscuit Basin, the trail enters the snow-covered mixed conifer forest and then follows the Little Firehole River. Finally, we get to the magical cascading falls.
After enjoying the view and snapping pictures, we go back the way we came and then turn right and follow the snow packed road about .3 miles, so we don’t have to break trail. We then turn left on the Biscuit Basin Loop Trail where we do have to break trail to get back to the Upper Geyser Basin and then back to the Lodge. It’s amazing!
We get back to the Lodge in time for a turkey sandwich in the charming lobby before jumping back in the snow coach.
Cayote, Yellowstone National Park, MT
Skiing, Snowshoeing and Walking in Yellowstone National Park – Fairy Falls
Fairy Falls is a good choice for cross country skiers, we are told. A shuttle will drop skiers at this trailhead for a longer outdoor adventure.
Winter access to Grand Teton National Park
It takes less than three hours to drive south from West Yellowstone to Jackson Hole over Teton Pass at 8,431 feet. It can be treacherous in the snow, so we choose to drive the pass in the daylight, the day after we come out of Yellowstone National Park. It’s a gorgeous drive over the rugged Tetons with sunshine glistening on the white snow!
One can also fly into Jackson Hole airport in the winter which is less than ten minutes from the Moose entrance to Teton National Park. We suggest renting a car but there are also plenty of hotel and town shuttles.
Winter Lodging in Grand Teton National Park
Unlike Yellowstone, the only lodging open in Teton National Park during the winter is Triangle X Ranch, a working dude ranch.
However, Jackson is a great place to stay with lots of lodging, activities, dining and of course world class skiing. The Lodge at Jackson Hole has nice rooms, a fabulous breakfast and free shuttle into town or to Teton Village. We had our favorite meal of the trip at Nora’s Homestyle Kitchen and Bar in Wilson, just outside of Jackson.
Skiing, Snowshoeing and Walking in Grand Teton National Park
Roads are closed to any traffic a short distance from each entrance to Teton National Park in the winter. But each entrance (Flagg Ranch, Colter Bay and Granite Canyon) has plowed parking lots along with trails for walking, snowshoeing and skiing inside the park.
Phelps Lake, Grand Teton National Park, WY
Granite Canyon Trailhead, Phelps Lake – 6 miles, 1,060 feet of elevation
The Granite Canyon Trailhead, with a nice big, plowed parking lot, is just 30 minutes from Jackson Hole via the Granite Canyon entrance. There are several trails on the map but not all are used in the winter unless you want to break the trail.
Phelps Lake is one of the most popular is appears and certainly the scenery, especially at the lake, is quite majestic! The large frozen lake is dotted with a few ice fishermen. Snow flocked fir trees cover the jagged peaks surrounding the lake.
We choose to walk in hiking boots as opposed to snowshoes which I regret 1.2 miles in as we turn left off the Moose-Wilson road, the main trail, and head through the forest to Phelps Lake. I keep breaking through the snow making the hike more exciting than need be.
We know we are close to the lake when we come upon a scenic log bridge across the creek. Once at the lake we gawk at the view and then return to the cute bridge so we can have a seat while eating our sandwich – very pleasant!
Taggart Lake – 4 miles
Truth be told, I’m an avid downhill skier so Tom does this walk (snowshoe or ski) while I am exploring the Jackson Hole ski Mountain despite low snow conditions.
The Taggart Lake Trail, approached from the Moose entrance, is similar to the Phelps Lake trail above, although shorter. Going to Bradley Lake adds another 1.5 miles.
Additional Skiing, Snowshoeing and Walking accessed from Jackson, WY
The Cache Creek Trail is found at the end of Cache Street right in downtown Jackson. Another pleasant trail along the Snake River is accessed from Emily Stevens Park off highway 22.
These trails are not in the park but are excellent scenic places to walk, snowshoe or ski close to town. They are mostly flat, and mileage can be easily varied.
While the National Elk Refuge is not in Grand Teton National Park it’s directly adjacent to the east and well worth a visit whether at the Visitor Center, the overlook on North Highway 89 or on a sleigh ride!
National Elk Refuge Overlook
All in all, visiting Yellowstone and Teton National Parks in the wintertime is magical and a great “bucket list” addition to those who enjoy time outdoors and/or in our wonderful National Parks!
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