Visiting Orcas Island, WA Year Around - Top Spots at My Home Away From Home
Carved by receding glaciers over 10,000 years ago, the San Juan Islands sit majestically in what we now call the Salish Sea, the second largest estuary in the US. These incredibly unique islands have rocky shores and hills blanketed in forest green. Their waters are home to rich sea life: kelp, seaweed, sea stars, crab, seals, sea lions, dolphins and the southern resident killer whales (SRKW) among others.
The San Juan Islands boast a temperate climate year around because of the warming aspect of the Salish Sea. In addition, the San Juan Islands are in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, so they have less rain (20 inches) and more sunshine than much of the Northwest. This climate enabled a robust apple industry in the early 1900’s. You will see remnants of orchards throughout the islands.
The archipelago encompasses 419 islands at high tide. The largest four islands, Lopez, Shaw, Orcas and San Juan, each have their own character and are accessible via Washington State Ferries. Diversity of geography and activity makes Orcas Island Tom’s and my favorite. Kayaking, hiking, wildlife, cuisine, and art are all superb.
Orcas is a large, 57 square mile, horseshoe shaped island. In the middle is East Sound with the main village by the same name at the head of the Sound. To the west are picturesque West Sound and Deer Harbor. To the east is big, beautiful forested Moran State Park. Mt Constitution, in Moran State Park, is the highest point in all the San Juan Islands at 2,400 feet.
July and August bring wonderful weather but also summertime crowds. The rest of the year the Island is a tranquil place to get away from it all. I consider Orcas Island my “home away from home” where after years of visiting, I eagerly anticipate and relish each day “on island”!
Without further ado, I will give you my top spots, by category, when visiting Orcas Island year around:
Transportation
1. Getting to Orcas Island is as scenic as being there. The most common and pleasant way to get to there is via a Washington State Ferry departing from Anacortes , a 1.5 hour drive north of Seattle. Make sure to get a reservation if you are taking a car, especially in the summer.
The lovely ferry ride is about an hour, sometimes stopping at Lopez and/or Shaw Islands on the way. If conditions allow, my favorite spot is the outside deck! Initially, the ferry crosses the open water of Rosario Strait but then weaves through the islands of Blakely, Decatur, Lopez and Shaw before arriving at Orcas. You may as well transition to “island time” with the ferry – they are often late.
Washington State Ferry, WA
2. Another fabulous and shorter way to get to Orcas is to take a Kenmore Air seaplane from Lake Union in Seattle. You can land at Eastsound, West Sound, Deer Harbor or Rosario. Occasionally, Tom has done this after I have taken the car up, with kayaks, and he loves it.
3. The Water Taxi, small traditional planes and private boats are less common options.
4. Once you are “on island” you will need a car to get around but if you “walk on” or come via seaplane you can hire an Orcas Island Taxi – no Uber here.
5. Or you can even rent a car now right at the Orcas ferry dock - the car are in the parking lot above the ferry loading lanes. Check out OrcasCars.com for more information.
Lodging
1. Moran State Park was originally donated by Robert Moran, a shipbuilder, and former Mayor of Seattle. It opened in 1921 after which much of the development was done by the Civilian Conservation Corp. The densely forested park is a fabulous place to camp (tent, Sprinter or RV). I would select the sites right on the shores of Cascade Lake.
2. West Beach Resort has a sandy beach, unique in the rocky San Juan Islands, along with incredible sunsets. And they can all be enjoyed from your campsite, yurt, van/RV or your very own waterfront cabin.
Moran State Park, Orcas Island, WA
3. Doe Bay Resort certainly has evolved over the years. Today you can still get a campsite, stay in a yurt/dome or experience your own cabin all on the east side of Orcas overlooking the Salish Sea. The soaking tubs along with other amenities are still there. This spot holds many memories for me including my very first kayak paddle in the San Juan Islands (out to Pea Pod Rocks).
4. Kingfish Inn has four nicely appointed rooms above the Kingfish Restaurant all with views of West Sound, two have private decks! They are open year around. I love this location!
5. The Outlook Inn is the place to be if you want to be in “downtown Eastsound”. New luxury units, appropriately named Water’s Edge, have recently been completed - does not get any better than that. The Outlook Inn has a variety of other room types as well. The Inn also boasts the New Leaf Café with outdoor seating.
Food
1. Island Market, in Eastsound, is the best and only real grocery store on the island. So, do not worry if you didn’t bring food – they have everything. In addition, the Orcas Village Store is great little store at the ferry landing. Turn right as you unload the ferry, park and get your lunch. My fav is the turkey cranberry sandwich on whole wheat complete with two Andes mints.
2. The Lower Tavern has always been our “go to” place after kayaking – it seems to always be open. It is practically in the parking lot of the Island Market thus attracting a local crowd. My favorite is the grilled turkey sandwich!
3. Luna’s Café and Three Sister’s Bakery (formerly Mia’s) is the place to go for a fantastically eclectic, fun and delicious breakfast or lunch. It’s right in Eastsound. Try the “smashed” potatoes.
4. The Madrona Bar and Grill sits right on Fish Bay in Eastsound. I love sitting outside on the little deck or getting a window seat for a water view. The food is good, and the crowd is semi-local – a pleasant experience for lunch or dinner.
5. Wild Island Restaurant + Juice Bar in Eastsound, is an island favorite for breakfast and lunch. The casual, fresh and organic food can’t be beat while sitting on the sunny deck or expansive lawn!
Sunset at West Beach Resort, Orcas Island
6. King Fish is in West Sound lest you think everything is in Eastsound. It has always been a favorite now reinvigorated by new owners who have partnered with Orca Song Farm for delicious fresh ingredients. Once again, I love the deck with water views of the Sound. (They also have a few rooms for overnight guests.)
7. Doe Bay Café supports local farmers, so the food is organic and wonderfully creative. I have always loved sitting in a booth looking down to the rock encircled cove below.
8. Inn at Ship’s Bay is an upscale, foodie type experience on the way from Eastsound to Moran State Park – a real treat! (They also have lovely, cozy lodging.)
9. Matia Kitchen, named after the island nearby, is in it’s second reincarnation and location. This is one of the best on Orcas. It’s so fun to savor incredible local dishes while enjoying the artistic presentation after being served with care (and education) by some talented restaurantuers. Get your reservations early.!
10. Monti is in the same building with Matia Kitchen but a world away. The small Italian plates are fabulous and so is the decor and service. You’ll love it!
This is one of the best of the best on Orcas. It was so fun to savor incredible local dishes while enjoying the artistic presentation after being served with care (and education) by some talented restaurantuers.
Ship Peak Loop, Turtleback Preserve, Orcas Island, WA
1. Ship Peak Loop Trail, Turtleback Mountain Preserve – 3 miles, 860 feet elevation gain. This local favorite begins at the South trailhead in Deer Harbor to Turtleback Preserve where there is a nice parking lot and map signage. I suggest taking a picture of the map if you can’t download this link.
Follow the South Trail gradually up for .4 miles where you will come to an old road, Morning Ridge Trail, take it to your right. 1.2 miles gets you to Ship Peak. There are benches at many fantastic viewpoints along the way. Much of the elevation gain comes in some long shallow switchbacks after the first viewpoint.
To complete the loop down, follow Morning Ridge Trail to Lost Oak Trail and then back to the South Trail.
2. Mountain Lake loop, Moran State Park – 3.9 miles, 50 feet elevation gain or 5.9 miles 300 feet elevation by adding Twin Lakes.
The walk can be done clockwise or counterclockwise – both are super. If you walk clockwise, my preference, lake views are off to your right while Douglas Firs tower over you on your left.
At the south end you will cross Cascade Creek on a little scenic bridge and walk below the spillover from the small dam. This route is great for trail running as well.
To add on Twin Lakes follow the sign at the North end of the Lake. Follow the trail clockwise around these picturesque lakes, Big Twin (.6 miles) and Little Twin (.4 miles), and then follow the trail back to the Mountain Lake Loop completing it as you would above.
3. Mt Pickett loop, Moran State Park – 8 miles, 1000 feet elevation gain. Begin going clockwise on the Mountain Lake loop, #2. At the north end of the Lake, you will see signs for Twin Lakes. Once to Twin Lakes follow the signs to Mt Pickett through the lush magical old forest of the Moran State Park Natural Area Preserve, blanketed in moss. The “summit” of Mt Pickett is anticlimactic after hiking up 1,000 feet – there isn’t a viewpoint.
After the Mt Pickett summit sign there is an unmarked intersection. Take a right and follow the trail for about one mile until you see some wetlands on your right. On your left you will see another unmarked intersection. Turn left and follow the switchbacks down to another unmarked interesection. Turn right and in about a quarter mile, on your left, you will see a trail out to a grassy knoll, Hogback Mountain Preserve, where I am a Land Steward for the San Juan Preservation Trust. From here you will see Bellingham, Mt Baker, Cypress and Vendovi Islands and the Pea Pods to the east. It’s idyllic!
Go back to the trail, turn left and cross a little wooden bridge and then turn right on the Mystery Trail, the first trail to your right after the little bridge. At the end of the Mystery Trail turn left and follow the signs back to the Mountain Lake Trailhead.
Hogback Preserve, Orcas Island, WA
4. Turtlehead Hike, Turtleback Mountain Preserve – 8.5 miles round trip, 1600 feet to the “head” from the South trailhead. This expansive preserve is a joint project between San Juan Preservation Trust, San Juan County Land Bank and the Trust for Public Land. When the “neck” was acquired by the San Juan Preservation Trust it opened a whole new world of hiking on Orcas Island.
Begin at the South Trailhead. Turn left on Lost Oak Trail – the beginning and end of this hike are the steepest sections. Then, follow the Ridge Trail to the Center Loop Trail and turn left. Continue Center Loop Trail past Raven Ridge Trail until you come to Turtlehead Trail where you will turn left and walk for 1.2 miles. It’s steepest right before you reach the “head”. I often hear visitors gasp in “awe” once they reach the “head” – the view of the Salish Sea and the islands below along with the Olympic Mountains to the south is incredible!
Take a picture of the map on the sign at the Preserve if you can’t download via this link.
5. Mt Constitution, Moran State Park – 7 miles round trip, 1,500 feet elevation gain. This hike is primarily in Moran State Park’s forest of Western Hemlock and Douglas Fir until you reach the tallest summit in the San Juan Islands. From Mountain Lake in Moran State Park begin walking clockwise on the Mountain Lake loop. Once to the end of the Lake follow the signs to Twin Lakes where you will turn left (versus right in #4) and follow the signs to Mt Constitution. This is where the short but steep climb begins - the summit is well worth it.
You can go back down the way you came, make it a loop by following signs to “Little Summit” or have your friends and family drive you down after your big climb! You can do the loop clockwise as well.
For more hikes and details go to Seven All-Season Hikes on Orcas Island.
Watersports
1. Cascade Lake, the smaller of the two lakes accessible by car, in Moran State Park is a great place for swimming, practicing your kayak skills, or renting a stand-up paddle board or paddle boat. Check out the otters that live under the dock and try the famous Lopez Island Creamery ice cream in the summer.
2. Crescent Kayak Rentals, just outside of Eastsound, is a great place for beginners to rent kayaks and experience the protected bay and enjoy the walkable crescent shaped beach.
Tom kayaking from Doe Bay to Obstruction Pass with Mt Baker in the background, Orcas Island, WA
3. Shearwater Kayaks, in Deer Harbor, is the perfect place to get a taste of kayaking in the San Juan Islands with a guide. Currents are strong and complex, and the water is cold in the San Juan Islands so it is best to begin with a guide, year around!
4. The Wasp Islands off of Deer Harbor are a good place to go if you are an intermediate paddler, currents are not quite as strong there with a good public “put in” courtesy of the San Jan Land Bank.
Yellow Island, a Nature Conservancy Preserve, is known for its dramatic spring bloom of camus, chocolate and fawn lilies, paintbrush, buttercups and dozens more.
5. If you are an experienced paddler, check out my blog Top Ten Kayak Paddles from Orcas Island with Guide, Michael Huber for more fantastic paddles in the area.
Yellow Island, Wasp Islands, WA
Sights
1. Whale Watching the endangered SRKW (Orcas) and other whales is popular. Know that the Salish Sea ecosystem is stressed and the J, K & L pods, at the top of the food chain, are suffering! So, I recommend viewing them from the shore. The best place to do that is at Lime Kiln State Park on San Juan Island. Take the ferry over and explore!
For more information read my blog, Whale Watching in the San Juan Islands – Know Before You Go. And, visit SeaDoc Society, based on Orcas Island, to learn more about healing the Salish Sea.
2. Drinking in the Sunset is a must do while on island! The dock at West Beach Resort is a stellar spot and so is the “scene” at North Beach. The look out tower a top Mt Constitution has long been my favorite spot.
3. If you don’t hike or have the time to walk up Mt Constitution you will want to still get up there for a picnic and the incredible 360 view of Mt Baker, North Cascades and the other islands in the archipelago. The road is open year around. If you are a cyclist this is an awesome climb.
4. Even though I am a cyclist, I do not recommend cycling on Orcas Island. Roads are narrow and curvy with blind corners and no shoulders. However, Lopez is a great cycling island! So, walk on the ferry with your bike or rent one on Lopez – Village Cycles will even deliver a rental bike to you up at the ferry dock.
5. Rosario Resort, the arts and crafts style mansion built for John Moran in the early 1900’s, is full of history and elegance. Walk the grounds, take the self-guided tour of the mansion, visit the museum upstairs, enjoy an organ concert (Tues-Sat @ 4pm) and then have a drink or bite.
Shopping
1. Eastsound has several shops to explore. It is fun to wander around and get a bite to eat.
2. No surprise, Orcas Island has a vibrant Farmer’s Market every Saturday (10am-3pm) from May through September on North Beach Road in Eastsound.
3. If you are in need of a summer beach or cozy winter read you can’t do any better than browsing the extensive collection at Darvil’s Book Store in Eastsound!
4. I love recommending a visit to Orcas Island Pottery. Pottery, from resident potters, is lovingly displayed outdoors year around. The view out to President’s Channel from their location on the west side of the island is not bad either! How can you live without an Orcas Island berry bowl?
5. Orcas Island Artworks features work from local artisans (jewelry, woodwork, paintings, sculpture, furniture and more) in Olga – it’s wonderful. Artworks is a co-op housed in a historic building with plenty of parking and a tasty café, Catkin.
Heading home from Orcas Island, WA on the Washington State Ferry - see you next time!
If you go:
Check the links provided for current hours and operations. They change frequently based on seasonality and available workers. And, for more information visit Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce and the San Juan Islands Visitor Bureau.
Make sure to get ferry reservations both ways. Reservations are released at 7:00am; 30% two months out, 30% 2 weeks out & 30% 2 days out. Arrive at least 30 min before your sailing time or you will lose your reservation (no show fee)!
Cell service is extremely limited “on island” except at the ferry landing and in Eastsound – Verizon seems to work best.
Please drive with care, especially at dawn and dusk. Deer are plentiful on Orcas Island.
This post will be updated once a year!
You might also enjoy:
Seven All-Season Hikes on Orcas Island and Top Ten Kayak Paddles from Orcas Island with guide Michael Huber
