Visiting Norway my Ancestral Home
Visiting Norway has been on my bucket list for several years not only because of its stunning natural beauty and deeply engrained outdoor lifestyle, but because of my Norwegian ancestry.
So, when we are invited to a family wedding in Estonia during the summer of 2022 it seems like the perfect time to visit Norway in addition to Estonia despite lingering covid concerns.
We are lucky to have a friend who grew up in Oslo and another who works in Norway. Their suggestions are priceless as we make travel plans!
Icelandic Air, through Reykjavik, is the best option route and cost wise from Seattle so off we go via Uber to SeaTac International Airport this lovely July afternoon!
Day One - Oslo
Our ten - hour flight out of Seattle via Reykjavik heads northeast over Canada, Greenland, Iceland and finally into Oslo - the view is magical from my window seat. The sun is up most of the time revealing the Boreal Forest, the biggest forest in the world, the jagged peaks and glaciers of Greenland, magnificent ice chunks in the North Atlantic and finally the greenery and farmland of dreamy Norway.
A high-speed train, from the airport, takes us to the Central Station in Oslo, a short walk from our Hotel Bondeheimen. The hotel is modest, thank you for the recommendation Reidun, with small but well-appointed rooms and a homey lobby in a central location.
After checking in, it’s time to take in some initial sights and stay awake. Another short walk from the hotel brings us to Oslo’s waterfront on the Oslofjord, technically not a Fjord, but beautiful anyway. Train tracks, motorized scooters, cafes and sightseeing boats abound – very few cars!
Oslo’s fantastic Opera House!
We then head over to the famous Oslo Opera House that doubles as a waterfront park. It’s fab! The structure was designed by the Norwegian architectural firm Snohetta and completed in 2007. The angular surfaces, faced with Carrera marble, give it a striking presence rising from the water.
We are fascinated by the magical glass sculpture depicting a mound of ice titled, “She Lies”, just off the Opera House steps.
Day Two - Oslo
Having moved nine hours ahead and gotten a good night sleep, we go to breakfast early to avoid the crowd. We can’t believe the spread that greets us - hot dishes, breads, pastries, fresh fruit, meats, cheeses, it goes on and on!
We learned that Oslo is a wonderful walking city, so we walk from the hotel past Parliament and up to the Royal Palace.
We continue our walk through the Queen’s Garden, behind the palace, which has always been public creating a lovely green park for all. From here we walk up Frognerveien, through a handsome neighborhood of historical homes, apartments and condominiums built in the 1920’s when Oslo, formerly named Christiana, came into her own.
Vigeland Park, Oslo Norway
Our destination is Frogner Park and Vigeland Park. The sculpture park, named after a prolific Norwegian sculptor, showcases 202 granite human sculptures and opened in 1947. Up close the sculptures are intriguingly human and from a distance the arrangement of them creates another form of art.
From here we walk to Majorstued and catch the Holmenkollen line of Oslo Metro. It climbs the large hill just outside of Oslo giving us expansive views of the city itself in addition to the Oslofjord. Our destination is a historic (1891) ski lodge with a casual Norwegian Restaurant, Frognerseteren, complete with a panorama of Oslo from upstairs. We can feel the cool mountain air up here even in July!
After the traditional open faced Norwegian shrimp sandwich we begin searching for the legendary ski jump at Holmenkollen National Arena by walking downhill on what are lit Nordic ski paths in the winter. Eventually we come upon the giant mind-boggling ski jump jutting into the air with no visible supports! Even as an advanced skier it’s hard to comprehend the athleticism and lack of fear needed for this venue.
It was a fun search, but had we just gotten off the train at Holmenkollen Station it would have been a much easier find.
What a day – eight miles of walking!
Day Three – Day trip to Eidinger
After years of genealogical research, I found out where my matriarchal great-grandmother immigrated from in 1861. So we rent a car and drive two hours south of Oslo to the tiny towns of Eidanger and Porsgrunn.
Historic Church in Eidanger, Norway
Our first stop is the historic Eidanger Church dating back to the 1100’s. As the story goes, my family helped with reconstruction in the 1600’s.
My family’s Ovald farm is our next stop. Sitting right on the shores of Eidangerfjord, it’s not what I picture as a farm. Several residential dwellings are on the site today. But during the 1800’s multiple families all lived together off the land. It was a tough life, especially in the winter.
We then visit downtown Porsgrunn, formerly Eidanger, a cute vibrant town at the mouth of the Porsgrunn River, for lunch. Michel Saylmager’s Hus, a log house on the water serving Norwegian style tapas is perfect!
We are running out of time but go to see the Telemark Canal and vintage tour boat. With 18 locks covering 65 miles, built in the 1800’s connecting Norsejo and Skien it sounds like a fantastic adventure that will have to wait!
After years of research the ancestral visit is possibly anticlimactic but wonderful none the less.
Day Four - Oslo
Today we begin by buying an Oslo Pass, good for most attractions including museums and ferries.
Unfortunately, the popular Viking Museum, is closed for renovation. However, the city ferry still takes us to Bygdoy Penninsula where we get off at the first stop by mistake but get to walk among the stately historic homes, the wealthiest part of Norway. Lovely!
Fram Museum, Oslo Norway
We arrive at the Fram Museum, a polar expedition museum featuring Roald Amundsen, a famous Norwegian explorer credited with finding the Northwest Passage. As we climb aboard two historic and well-preserved ships it’s hard to imagine what life was like exploring the artic back then. The film is informative, and the exhibits are extensive.
Afterwards, we walk across the parking lot to the Kon Tiki Museum. The award winning 1960’s documentary fills me in on the story. A group of Norwegians, led by Thor Heyerdahl, recreated an early Polynesian Raft and set sail from Peru to Polynesia to see if the prevailing winds and currents could carry them proving that Polynesia could have been settled by South Americans in pre-Columbian times. They succeeded! An amazing story and well-done museum which includes the actual Kon Tiki.
Just for fun we walk back through the gorgeous homes to the first ferry stop so that we can have lunch at Laternen, right on the water for the best open faced shrimp sandwich so far. We hop the short ferry ride back to downtown.
Continuing to maximize our Oslo Pass, we stop by the Nobel Peace Prize Center on the Oslo waterfront. The Prize is executed by the Norwegian Parliament per Alfred Bernhard Nobel’s Will.
(We miss the new and extensive Munch Museum, famous for “The Scream”, but visit on the way back through Oslo later in the trip. It’s a unique structure right next to the Opera House.)
Day Five – “Norway in a Nutshell”
We wake early knowing this will be a big travel day and say goodbye to Oslo of which we have grown fond, to catch the 8:08 am train, from Central Station to Mydal. This is the beginning of what is called “Norway in a Nutshell”.
The train is modern and smooth but $10 for the first-class upgrade on the five-hour journey is well worth it. As we leave Oslo civilization, we pass through a fir tree forest and then gradually gain elevation and a view. The green slopes are dotted with rock outcroppings and small cabins. As we gain 2,000 feet there are more and more streams and small lakes from the snow melt which add to the idyllic landscape.
Catching the Flam Train at Mydal, Norway
We disembark at Mydal and are totally awestruck by the beauty while waiting for the Flam Train in the chilly mountain air.
As we board the vintage feeling Flam Train, we know we are in for a big treat. We go where I thought no train could ever go - waterfall after waterfall, huge vistas and countless snow sheds surround us as we descend for an hour.
At one point we stop and get off the train to view a huge wide waterfall. An angel comes out near the top of the fall and dances for us – really!
I imagine this will end up being the best train ride of my life!
Once to Flam, a village at the head of the Aurlandsfjord, we follow the “Norway in a Nutshell” herd to our ferry. It’s a new electric powered carbon fiber three level ferry – gorgeous. There is plenty of room for all, but we choose the sunny outdoor decks as the best place to gawk at the scenery.
As we pull away, the mighty walls of the fjord dwarf the docked cruise ship! The fjord’s steep walls are littered with waterfalls; big and small. We initially travel the wide Aurlandsfjord and then turn left on the narrow Naeroyfjord where the wind abates. Along the way we stop at two tiny villages – can’t even imagine life here especially in the snow-covered winter.
After two incredible hours we arrive at Gudvangen and get in the big line for the #950 bus to Voss but which stops at Stalheim. Flam lodging was full when we booked so Tom picked this amazing hotel. The setting, a UNESCO Site, might be the most spectacular spot I’ve ever seen!
The Stalheim Hotel itself, originally built in 1885 was rebuilt in the 1960’s and desperately needs an upgrade. A huge European buffet breakfast, which we are now accustomed to, comes with the room. Unfortunately, there is nowhere else to eat so we also must eat the pricey big dinner buffet as well.
Day Six - Stalheim
Sunrise from our window is magnificent, a wonderful beginning to our first day in Stalheim!
Sunrise from our room at the Stalheim Hotel
We aren’t sure about hikes, so we just start up the gravel road right from the hotel. As we continue along, we marvel at the green covered hills. There are wide open vistas without many trees, but the countryside is lush with rivers, streams and small waterfalls. A little bit of snow is still left in August.
The landscape is dotted with small cottages each with a wooden family sign. It appears that these were family farms and sheep herding cabins common in Norway when my ancestors lived here in the mid-eighteen hundreds. Some look like they have been modernized with solar panels and other amenities for recreational use.
The cows, sheep and goats are plentiful, well fed and seem happy wandering around. Their bells and baahing are just so charming in this sunny, picturesque Norwegian landscape.
We end up walking eight miles, 1,200 feet. Tom and I rate this as one of the most magnificent hikes we have ever done!
Day Seven – Kayaking the Naeroyfjord
My dream of kayaking in a Norwegian Fjord is coming true today!
Nordic Adventures is kind enough to pick us up at our hotel at 9 am and drive us to the “put in” which is Gudvangen, 15 minutes away. This guide service makes the process of organizing people with PFD’s, spray skirts, booties, paddles and kayak fairly painless.
It's a picture-perfect day with glassy water, sunshine, and warm temperatures – even the guide is excited. Apparently, it hasn’t been like this much lately.
Kayaking the Naeroyfjord!
We head north on Naeroyfjord . The scenery is spectacular with the steep walls of the Fjord, laden with waterfalls, waterfalls waterfalls.
There are no currents here and the water is brackish because it’s fed by the waterfalls, fresh water. There isn’t much sea life presumably because of the harsh winters.
In all the paddle is eight miles down the Fjord, with a nice stop for a tasty lunch and a return on the opposite side while passing a couple tiny villages along the way – a great day!
Day Eight and Nine - Bergen
A bus from Stalheim to Voss followed by a train gets us to Bergen in about five hours
Bergen is the second largest city in Norway. We hear that it is charming historical port town but, unfortunately, when the cruise ships land in the summer they overwhelm the town. As we arrive, we find this to be an accurate description.
But our Thon Hotel is in a nice central location, a short walk through the lovely Central Park from the train station and it has a great breakfast, once again.
Bergen, Norway
Although Bergen is right on the water it has seven hills close by for nice hikes. Mount Ulriken is accessed by Cable Car and Mount Floyen is accessed by the Floibanen Funicular. The hike that sounds the best is to go up to one and down the other a 9.5 mile hike with superb views of Bergen along the way.
Tom does the Mount Floyen hike which is a short but steep hike right from town.
(Unfortunately, I get covid forcing us to isolate in Bergen for several extra days. After which Tom gets covid on the train from Bergen to Oslo forcing us to isolate several more days in Oslo. We miss the wedding and visiting Estonia – a heartbreak! I am writing this per our original/ideal itinerary.)
Day Ten and Eleven – Reykjavik
The train takes us back to Oslo’s Central Station where we catch the train back to the airport. The Radisson Blu Hotel couldn’t have been more convenient at the airport for our early flight to Reykjavik. We booked a free stopover for a couple of days to check out Iceland.
The first dreary morning we walk into and around town from our hotel. Main street has a variety of Icelandic shops and there is a nice path on the waterfront.
Dettifoss waterfall, Reykjavik, Iceland
On the second day we rent a car and drive the popular Golden Circle. The highlight is Dettifoss, an enormous waterfall. We run into huge crowds parked and walking to see the Kilauea Volcano, erupt. Doesn’t seem like a good idea to me.
We get to check out the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport, but Tom isn’t a spa guy, and we are short on time for our 1:45 pm flight back to Seattle.
Day Twelve – Home
Norway is as or more spectacular than I had dreamed it would be. It’s a country I’d like go back to with additional time in Oslo and northern Norway!
If you go:
1. June, July, and August are the best or only time to visit unless you are participating in winter sports and enjoy short days.
2. Norway’s population was 5.4 million in 2020. This compares to Washington State’s 7.5 million on half the size. So, it’s not a dense country like the rest of Europe!
3. Oslo’s metro area population was 1.1 million in 2020 – much smaller than other European cities.
4. There are several different languages spoken in Scandinavia, including Norwegian. However, English seems to be the common language.
5. Travel in Norway can be expensive. In summer of 2022 the exchange rate was in our favor.
6. Public transportation is easy and readily available.
Family History for Reference:
My great gandmother, Hannah Pederson, was born to Peder Larsen, a sailor, and Karen Oline Olsdatter at the Ovald Family Farm in Eidinger, Telemark, Norway in 1845. Hannah had a twin sister, Karen Marie Pederstatter, a brother, Louis Pederson born 1843 and another sister, Kirsten Karen Pederstatter born 1840.
Unfortunately, Peder Larsen died young in 1846. Karen Oline re-married Anders Nilsen Stamland in 1863 in Eidinger. Karen, Anders and the twins immigrated to the US in 1863 settling in Ludington, MI. Louis arrived soon thereafter, and their sister Kirsten and her husband arrived in 1870.
After immigrating with her family at age 17, Hannah Pederson married Charles Oleson at age 19 in Manistee, MI in 1865. Charles Oleson had immigrated to WI in 1861, age 17, where he served three years in the Civil War Calvary on the side of the Union. He was discharged due to illness and ended up in Lundington, MI with his mother, Engeborg Kittildtr, father, Ole Oleson and brother, John Olson.
After years of research, I haven’t been able to find out where in Norway Charles immigrated from and if he knew Hannah in Norway or if they met in MI.
Charles and Hannah went on to have five daughters, four of whom survived to adulthood: Anna, Louise, Jessie, my grandmother, and Mabel, and two sons Albert and Harry. Charles was a Liveryman and later became a civic leader in Ludington.
I never met my Grandmother Jessie, but my Great Aunt Mabel was like a grandmother to me. She moved from Ludington, MI to Tacoma, WA to be a history teacher at Lincoln High School. Jessie, my grandmother, and Louise followed Mabel out west. So did Hannah my great grandmother after her beloved Charles died in 1907.
Jessie, my grandmother, eventually re-married my grandfather Fred T Hood, after a divorce, and had my mom, Mary Hood, their only child, in 1924 in Seattle, WA.
I look like all these Oleson women so was interested in finding my roots. It’s hard to believe that four sisters only produced one child, my mom. So, I searched for years with no luck until one day my 3rd cousin, messaged me via Ancestry and I learned the story! The trip to Norway was the culmination of this search after having visited Ludington, MI.
